When most travelers visit Busan, they think of Haeundae Beach, colorful Gamcheon Culture Village, and bustling seafood markets along the coast. But just one hour outside the city, a completely different world appears.
Welcome to Cheongdo (청도) — a quiet mountain town where time seems to slow down. Historically, Cheongdo was a remote mountain region where news from the outside world arrived very late. Even today, the area remains peaceful and untouched compared to the busy city.
For travelers who enjoy discovering hidden places instead of crowded tourist attractions, this is the perfect destination. I call travelers like this “Dtourists” — people who travel beyond the guidebooks. Here, you’ll discover ancient temples, breathtaking mountain landscapes, and one of the most authentic vegan meals you can experience in Korea.
Part 1. A Spiritual Journey into the Mountains
The Pine Tree That Bows — Unmunsa Temple
Your journey begins at Unmunsa Temple (운문사). This temple is one of the four major Buddhist training temples for nuns in South Korea, making it an important spiritual center in Korean Buddhism.
As you enter the temple grounds, you will immediately notice a remarkable 500-year-old pine tree, known as the Weeping Pine. Unlike most trees that grow upward toward the sky, this pine tree’s branches bend gently downward toward the ground. In Buddhist philosophy, this symbolizes Hasim (하심) — the practice of lowering one’s ego and living with humility.
Fun Fact: Every spring, the monks pour twelve buckets of Makgeolli (traditional Korean rice wine) around the tree as a traditional offering to keep it healthy!
http://unmunsa.or.kr/?c=79/87&p=9&uid=24787
Stairway to Heaven — Sariam Hermitage
Hidden deeper in the mountains behind Unmunsa lies Sariam (사리암), a small hermitage built dramatically along the side of a steep mountain cliff. To reach it, visitors climb hundreds of stone steps through the forest. The climb can be challenging, but the view from the top is unforgettable. Layers of mountains stretch into the distance, creating a peaceful atmosphere that feels almost timeless.
Many visitors come here to make a wish. At the entrance, you can buy a small offering such as rice or a candle, write your name, and place it as a Siju (시주) offering. According to local belief, Sariam grants one sincere wish to those who pray with a true heart.
The Mysterious Saint & The Magic Rice Rock
But who exactly are people praying to here? Sariam is famous across Korea as the ultimate sanctuary for Naban Jonja (The Lonely Saint).
Unlike typical Buddhas, he is a mysterious, enlightened hermit figure deeply rooted in Korean Buddhism. Locals believe that Naban Jonja responds exceptionally fast to prayers, but there is a strict rule: he will only grant just one truly desperate and pure wish.
There is also a fascinating myth that makes this place even more special. Centuries ago, there was a small hole in a rock cave at Sariam. Miraculously, exactly enough uncooked rice flowed out of this hole every day to feed the monks living there. If one monk lived there, one portion came out; if ten monks visited, ten portions flowed.
One day, a greedy monk decided he wanted to collect more rice to save up. He secretly chiseled the hole to make it bigger. But the moment he did, the rice stopped flowing forever, and only a stream of water came out instead!
This legendary tale is a perfect reminder of the Buddhist teaching to let go of greed—which brings us perfectly to your next experience: the Zero-Waste temple meal.
Part 2. The Ultimate Vegan Meal
Eat Like a Monk at the Temple Dining Hall
Temple cuisine in Korea has recently become a global wellness and vegan food trend. At Sariam, visitors can experience this tradition firsthand. Meals are served in the temple dining hall (Gongyanggan – 공양간), where monks and visitors share the same simple and nourishing food. Even better — the meal is completely free for visitors.
Temple Meal Times:
Breakfast: 5:15 AM
Lunch: 11:00 AM ( Best timing for day-trip travelers!)
Dinner: 4:00 PM
(Schedules may change slightly depending on the temple’s daily routine. If you’re visiting from Busan, arriving before 11:00 AM for lunch is usually the best option.)
“Temple Dining Etiquette:
Leave a Small Donation: Although the meal is free, visitors usually leave a small cash donation in the box.
Zero Waste: Take only what you can eat. In temple culture, leaving food behind is considered disrespectful.
Clean Your Own Bowl: After finishing your meal, you must wash your bowl and chopsticks yourself. This simple act is part of the mindfulness practice of temple life.“
Part 3. The Dtourist Survival Guide
Many travelers assume visiting Sariam requires complicated transportation. But the good news is that it can easily be done as a one-day trip from Busan. You can travel from Busan → Sariam → back to Busan in the same day without a car.
Option 1: Direct Day-Trip Shuttle (Best Option)
Occasionally, direct shuttle buses operate from Busan to the Unmunsa / Sariam area, especially on weekends or through temple tour programs. These buses allow visitors to travel from Busan to Sariam and return on the same day without transfers. If available, this is the easiest and most comfortable way to visit.
Direct Shuttle Bus Schedule (Busan ↔ Sariam)
| Departure | Arrival | Boarding Location | Time | Operating Days & Notes |
| Busan | Sariam | Busanjin Station (Line 1) Exit 8. Walk 50m towards Beomil-dong. (Wait next to the ‘Noroo Waterproof Paint’ shop) | 10:00 AM | Daily |
| Sariam | Busan | Sariam Parking Lot (Near Unmunsa Checkpoint) | 6:00 AM | Every Sunday & 1st day of the lunar month |
| Sariam | Busan | Sariam Parking Lot (Near Unmunsa Checkpoint) | 4:20 PM | • Weekends (Sat, Sun) • 1st, 3rd, 5th week: Tue, Fri • 2nd, 4th week: Mon, Thu |
Essential Info (꼭 알아두세요!)
- Bus Fare: 10,000 KRW (One-way) / Cash only
- Bus Driver’s Contact: 010-5161-6236 (We recommend asking your hotel receptionist or a Korean friend to call and confirm the seats in advance!)
Option 2: Alternative Route (Train + Taxi)
If the shuttle is not available, the journey is still simple.
Step 1 — Train: Take a Mugunghwa regional train from Busan Station to Cheongdo Station (청도역). Travel time is about 40–50 minutes.
Step 2 — Taxi: From Cheongdo Station, use the Kakao T app (Korea’s version of Uber) to call a taxi to Unmunsa Temple. Estimated fare is about 30,000 KRW.
Final Step — Climb to Sariam: From the Unmunsa entrance area, visitors travel to the Sariam trailhead. From there, it takes about 30 minutes of stair climbing to reach the hermitage. The climb is steep, but the view at the top makes it completely worth it.
About the Author
Hi! I’m a Busan local, a passionate traveler, and a father of two.
While many tourists only visit Busan’s famous beaches, I created The Dtourlist to introduce the hidden places around Busan and the beautiful small towns nearby.
My goal is simple: To help travelers discover the real Korea that locals know and love.